Golf Tips:
Proper Club Fitting


  1. Club head design, and weight
  2. Shaft materials, weight, flex, flex or kick points, torque, and length
  3. Club - lie angle (this must be determined in swing by the contact the club head makes with the ground)
  4. Grip size and feel
  5. Swing weight
  6. Overall weight of the club

In terms of club head design, most companies have instituted some form of perimeter weighting. Perimeter weighting means there is added weigh around the outside of the club head. This distributes more mass behind the ball on off center hits, which helps the ball fly straighter and further. As a general rule the more weight there is located towards the bottom or sole of the club head the higher it will make the ball fly. The more weight located on the top of the club head the more it will keep the ball flight down. As a general rule your better players desire a lower ball flight.

To determine the proper fit the club fitter will check some general measurement from your hand, knuckles, or fingers to the ground. This will give them an idea on the overall length of shaft that you should be using. The longer the shaft the faster the club head speed. The trade off is in the accuracy with which it can be hit. A club fitter may take an individual who hits the ball very straight and short and put them into a longer shaft. This person may be willing to give up some of their consistency accuracy for added distance. If you hit the ball longer with poor accuracy, a longer shaft would not be advisable.
Next he will check your swing speed with a swing radar. He will then observe your ball flight to determine if it is too low or too high and whether or not your general ball flight pattern can be improved with different equipment. These things will help him determine the shaft material, weight, flex, flex point and the torque of the shaft that will best suite your needs.

As a general rule shafts come in ladies, seniors, soft or regular, firm or stiff, and strong or extra stiff flexes. Individuals with slower swing speeds will require shafts with softer flexes. Shafts come in steel and graphite and they have low mid and high kick or flex points. Generally speaking graphite shafts are lighter and longer than steel shafts. Graphite is a little more versatile in accommodating individuals who don't fit into the average physical measurement and abilities. Graphite is more easily customized to fit unusually tall or short individuals, as well as individuals with excessive and slower swing speeds.

The kick point is where majority of the flex will occur in the shaft. Shafts have varying degrees of torque as well. Torque is the amount of twisting capabilities the shaft has. Generally speaking stiffer shafts have higher kick points and lower torque which results in lower ball flight tendencies. Weaker shafts have lower kick points and higher torque which produces greater speed and higher ball flights when swung at lower speeds.

In my opinion majority of golfers are playing with shaft flexes that are too stiff. The stiffer the shaft, the faster it needs to be swung in order for the shaft to flex the proper amount to maximize efficiency and distance of the shaft. The problem is most individuals are not able to flex their shafts, unless they over swing. If they don't over swing their not going to realize the maximum distance the shaft can effectively produce. This results in a catch 22 in that over swinging typically produces tension, which results in less speed and distance to begin with. Over swinging also produces miss hits, which also affect distance and accuracy. Put this same individual in a weaker shaft that will allow them to swing slower, smoother and more consistently and they will maximize their efficiency, hitting the ball further with less effort while playing better golf.

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Scott Mayer - PGA Teaching Professional | (207) 838-5731 |
Nonesuch River Golf Club LLC | 304 Gorham Road | Scarborough, Maine 04074

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